'Better Get Another Muse'

Opening to an incoherent Björk soundtrack, Spanish model and muse Eleonara Bose set the tone Davidelfin Fall-Winter 2010 Collection.

Known for her hard, androgynous features, the model who once made her name modeling for Gucci (led by Tom Ford at the time) donned a Crayola yellow haircut cut slightly above the ears like small helmet. The coloring of her hair would form the basis of the collection’s color scheme – which also included black, white, snakeskin, fuchsia and plaid.

I had been forewarned by a colleague that the show would be a bust. But judging by the sprinkling of a few celebrities, the filming of the show for an episode of MTV’s “The City” and the fact that there wasn’t an empty seat anywhere in the ‘Salon’ of the Bryant Park tents, I thought his prediction could be wrong.

No, my colleague was right.

The collection was severe and unimaginative, even the use of bright color failed to pick up my spirits. One man wore yellow boots to match his yellow leggings, worn with plaid shorts and a white shirt and blazer. Another particular piece, a men’s blazer in fuchsia, reminded me of the square-shouldered, eighties-inspired collection in electric blues and pinks spotted a couple seasons ago at Marc Jacobs.

Been there, seen that.

The Spanish designer revisited his reconfiguration of garments like he did last Spring, taking garments apart and placing their other halves in unlikely places. For example, the bottom half of men’s jacket might find itself attached to the top of a men’s trouser. What looked like a pleated skirt might be worn on top of a woman’s gray snakeskin pant, underneath a blazer and white button-down shirt.

The effect was odd and gratuitous, being that the realigning of garments served no real purpose. Who needs a pleated skirt attached to a woman’s trouser?

Even the pieces that seemed more appealing (the black coat-dress with fuchsia lining or the long black satin dress) looked uncomfortable as the model teetered in each.

My best advice for Davidelfin: “Choose another muse and preferably, without a Crayola yellow hairdo.”

-S. Gonzalez

*Photos courtesy of style.com

'Color Me Purple'

With New York Fashion Week just about wrapping up, it looks like the Pantone Color Institute has released its list of popular men’s and women’s colors for fall.

For those that don’t know, the Pantone Color Institute is the leading authority on color and is instrumental in its use in both the fashion and home furnishings industry. Chances are that whichever color makes it on this list is likely to turn up on your next shopping trip for the next dress, accessory or bath towel.

So that you can compare and contrast between the spring-summer and the upcoming fall-winter, here’s a look at some of this season’s picks:

After the recession hit in 2008, most designers retreated to leather and studs, hard and masculine all-black looks. It might be the jumpstarting economy or the possibility that designers believe color might lure more shoppers. Whatever the reason, the color purple dominates the chart this season (and no, I’m not referring to the novel, although that’s a best-seller too) and will continue to, come fall.

Listed in value of importance is the latest Fall 2010 list:

1. Purple Orchid

2. Chocolate Truffle

- Because this shade bears a near resemblance to plum, chocolate truffle is able to combine with other shades of brown and other brighter colors as well. There are fewer limits with such a shade. According to the Pantone Institute in WWD, this color is “classic, dependable.”

3. Woodbine

4. Oyster Gray*

- With nudes having a strong presence this spring, oyster gray is a neutral worthy of exploring. It can be paired with more of the flesh tones we see this spring, and as a lighter gray, it can also break up darker color combinations in the fall.

5. Lagoon Pantone

6. Rose Dust

7. Lipstick Red

8. Golden Glow

9. Living Coral*

- Coral is a natural deviation from the orange that so many designers have favored in the past two seasons. It breathes freshness and is soft and warm. On a personal note, I already have my eyes on a silk floor-length Nicole Miller gown in this same shade, which I plan to match with my collection of elaborate costume jewelry.

10. Endive

My top picks: Chocolate Truffle; Oyster Gray; Rose Dust; Golden Glow; Living Coral

Least favorite: Woodbine, Lagoon, Endive

-S. Gonzalez

*Photos courtesy of bellasignature.com and pantone.com

'Cause You Got To Have Faith'

The ten minutes before the fashion show was supposed to start, were spent sprinting across Union Square Park to the Altman Building on 18th Street – thanks to all the service changes on MTA that has made riding the subway an absolute waste of time.

It was a rocky start to the Manuel de la Cruz FW2010 Collection, which coincidentally opened against some rock music.

There is much to tell about this up-and-comer, whose collection titled “Revelations” took a modern spin on classically tailored suits, coats, cocktail dresses and separates. His clothing is geared towards the feminine, yet busy woman and the sexy, masculine man who doesn’t mind a little color and embellishment.

This time around, Manuel de la Cruz moved away from his dark color palette, incorporating white, gray, mauve, red, navy blue, green and camel in wool and silk blends.

The collection did not veer from the usual play of religion and faith. More interesting was the influence of Mayan art – translated into a strapless brocade cocktail dress and Mayan graphics on the backs of men’s jackets.

Manuel de la Cruz was born and raised in Guatemala, and as a Latino, has a strong connection to his Mayan ancestry and Catholic upbringing.

The designer left Guatemala as a teenager, studying fashion in Milan and Florence before making the move to Parson’s in New York.

Specializing in tailoring, he moved on to work for top New York-based labels like Narciso Rodriguez, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, DKNY and others. Manual de la Cruz launched his first collection five years ago, teaming up with partner Brian Levy and forming mdlc & co.

The designer again enlisted the help of Pablo Escobar, who supplied the shoes, crowning headpieces, statement necklaces and the jewel-encrusted leather sleeves, gloves and ear pieces.

But Pablo Escobar was not the only to create the element of shine – a series of Manuel de la Cruz’s men’s dress shirts included what appeared to be sequined patches on the shoulder and embroidery work.

My personal favorites: the burgundy wool jacket paired with the green gabardine men’s trouser; the red gabardine woman’s trouser and the silk faille cocktail dress.

All in all it was a smooth, marketable collection with excellent tailoring, making Manuel de la Cruz a designer to watch for this year.

As for me – I skipped the subway and took a smooth cab ride home.

-S. Gonzalez

For more about the designer and his vision, visit manuel-delacruz.com

*Photos by S. Gonzalez